One Day Horseback Trek to Waqrapukara

The day started early with a 4 AM wake-up. Eber, the driver, picked me up, and we loaded the car before collecting the clients, who were running late. I felt a wave of nerves about the responsibility of taking care of them and making sure we got to our destination smoothly, especially since I was also helping navigate a route to a place I have never been.

   We embarked on our four-hour journey with no GPS, no maps, and only some instructions from Kyd. The driver and I didn’t share a common language, which added to the challenge, but I was determined to make everything seem as seamless as possible.

As we approached a large red sign for Waqrapukara, I had a gut feeling that something wasn’t right. Kyd had never mentioned this sign, but I didn’t speak up, partly because I wasn’t 100% sure and partly due to my limited Spanish. I also didn’t want to use my data. The driver seemed confident, so I hesitated to question him. We continued down a rough, beaten track for quite some time before I really started regretting not trusting my instincts. Eventually, the driver realised the mistake, and we turned around on a single-file dirt road full of bumps and sharp curves.

   Despite the detour, we were only 30 minutes behind schedule. I couldn’t tell if I was imagining it, but I sensed some irritation from the clients. Determined to avoid another mistake, I read and re-read Kyd’s instructions and kept a keen eye on the road. When we reached a familiar sign, the driver suggested turning right, but this time, I was confident in my directions and spoke up. We continued forward, and finally, we reached the tin-roofed hut with three signs for Waqrapukara. From there, just a 30–40 minute dirt road stood between us and our destination.

I realised that we hadn’t yet stopped for coffee or breakfast, so I used my pre-prepared screenshot of Google Translate to ask the driver if we could pull over when possible. The spot wasn’t ideal, but we made do. I offered coffee and tea to the clients, though they declined, which made me nervous that they weren’t happy. The driver and I, however, enjoyed our coffee, and he seemed pleased when I gave him his sandwich and fruit.

   The final stretch of road was wild - twisting, dipping, and climbing through breathtaking green mountains that stretched as far as the eye could see. I could understand why the Incas considered the mountains sacred (apus). Their towering presence and ever-changing landscapes made them feel alive.

After what felt like an eternity, I finally spotted the truck carrying the horses - we had arrived!

The horses were already saddled and ready. We spent some time organising our belongings into saddle bags, ensuring we had enough gear for the day, including rain jackets since mountain weather can be unpredictable. I was beyond excited - the energy of the place was incredible. Everywhere I looked, the mountains loomed in stunning beauty.

The horses navigated steep, rocky, and uneven terrain, something that horses back home in England would never attempt. I could already imagine the reactions of riders back home if they saw these conditions! Yet, these Peruvian horses were completely in their element.

After about three hours of riding, we stopped, tied up our horses, and continued on foot to Waqrapukara. The change was striking - the effects of the altitude were much more noticeable without the horses.

Waqrapukara, which means "Horned Fortress" in Quechua, is an impressive archaeological site perched atop a rugged mountain ridge overlooking the Apurímac River canyon. The site features dramatic rock formations resembling horns, giving it its distinctive name. Believed to have been both a ceremonial and military stronghold during the Inca Empire, Waqrapukara showcases sophisticated stonework, terraces, and ceremonial platforms. It was likely a strategic outpost that also served as a spiritual sanctuary, highlighting the Inca's deep connection to both the land and their deities. The panoramic views from the top are breathtaking, with the ancient ruins blending seamlessly into the surrounding natural beauty.

Eduardo, our guide, took me up to the top, where we attempted to communicate despite the language barrier. I think we managed well enough!

We enjoyed a beautiful picnic with a spread of delicious food before making our way back down to the horses and beginning the ride home.

The Journey Back

Once the car was loaded, we said goodbye to Kyd, Eduardo, and the truck driver before heading back. This time, the journey felt much quicker.

   We encountered what I like to call "livestock rush hour" - cows, sheep, donkeys, and horses, often led by young children, blocked parts of the winding road. The people of Peru struck me deeply. There is something beautiful about their culture, their traditional dress, and their way of life. Many live high up in the mountains without electricity or hot water, so different from the Western world. I watched two kids, no older than ten, hiking up the mountain road carrying farm tools, likely after a full day of work. The contrast to children in Western countries was stark. I am not suggesting child labor, but there was something admirable about their strong work ethic - a trait that often feels lacking in modern life.

As we continued, the rain had made the roads wet but still passable. The most nerve-wracking moment came when we got stuck behind two trucks loaded with logs, which seemed to have little to no securing straps, and our driver glued behind them way too close for my liking. I braced myself, imagining a log flying off and impaling me - not exactly a comforting thought! Thankfully, we made it through unscathed.

    The rest of the journey was quiet. The mountain roads at night were eerily dark, a stark contrast to the streetlights I was so accustomed to. I held onto my thermos of coffee, torn between drinking it to stay awake or saving it so I wouldn’t be kept up later. I knew I still had work to do once I got back - unloading gear and sorting things out.

Looking back, the day was an incredible adventure. There were bumps along the way - literally and figuratively - but Waqrapukara left a lasting impression. The journey, the landscapes, and the people I encountered all added to an unforgettable experience.

click me