A Five-Day Odyssey Across Canada on The Canadian

I came across this train journey whilst researching things to do in Canada last year. I was utterly blown away by it from the get go; although I then looked at the prices and was equally blown away. For the weeks following my discovery of this journey I couldn’t shake the desire to go on board. I sat and worked out finances - whether or not I could actually afford this- before long I bit the bullet and booked my ticket. Money comes and goes but memories are eternal, I knew that my future self would thank me for spending on this trip.

So with that I embarked on a five-day railway journey across Canada on VIA Rail’s "The Canadian" - nothing short of a majestic odyssey. This 4,466 km adventure, starting in Toronto and ending in Vancouver, was a mesmerising traverse through some of the most picturesque landscapes that Canada has to offer. From the dense boreal forests of northern Ontario to the expansive prairies, and the awe-inspiring Canadian Rockies, this journey is a treasure trove of natural beauty and human connection.

Day 1: Departure from Toronto

The journey begins in the bustling metropolis of Toronto, where Union Station stands as a gateway to adventure. Opened in 1927 Toronto union station is a landmark in its own right, it is  Canada’s largest and most opulent railway station. I was directed into the business lounge where I excitedly purchased some train paraphernalia and helped myself to some of the complimentary drinks.

We soon boarded where I was shown to my car and my room. Words can’t describe the excitement that was bubbling inside me as I saw my room. I have to admit I did sit down and shed quite a few, I promise happy, tears. I was so beyond grateful to have been able to come on this journey, and feeling super proud that my hard work had paid off. Onboard, the train itself is a marvel. Via rail dates back to 1977, with its vintage charm and modern amenities, The Canadian offers a unique blend of nostalgia and comfort. The dome cars, with their panoramic windows, are perfect for soaking in the ever-changing scenery.

As the train rolled out of the city, the urban landscape gradually gave way to the serene beauty of northern Ontario. Everyone quickly gathered in the dome car where we were given complimentary mimosas by our lovely hostess Melissa. The vast boreal forests, dotted with sparkling lakes and rivers, provided a tranquil start to the journey.

It was a stunning first day on board, made even better by the most amazing staff. A big thank you to Melissa our host who was wonderful, Miguel who was my attendant and Kelly. I cannot thank Kelly enough he has been working with via rail for 17 years and never failed to make me feel incredibly comfortable and make sure that I was happy.

I settled down in bed after the most delicious on board dinner, eager for what the next day would hold.

Day 2: Northern Ontario's Wilderness

The second day is a deep dive into the heart of northern Ontario.

Not long after waking up we passed through a town called Armstrong, which was a funny coincidence as it is my last name. What was even more coincidental was the next point was a town named Collins which was the surname of one of my new friends I met on board. He was a brilliant gentlemen from Australia whom it seemed had traversed the entire globe, he had stories from all over. I was truly fascinated by him and enjoyed every moment I spent with him.

The scenery was amazing, there were beautiful forests laced with vast lakes and amazing wildlife, although I only saw some ducks at this point - I wasn’t as lucky as others, my new Australian friend had seen a moose! We crossed the border and entered Manitoba, a province with 200 lakes, some of which were formed by meteor craters and apparently offer some of the best fishing for northern pike, perch and lake trout if that is your thing.

As well as marvelling at the incredible landscape on board The Canadian was also an excellent time to start mingling with fellow travellers. The train's dining car, serving gourmet meals, became a hub of conversation. You sat next to new people each meal, allowing a multitude of different conversations. Here, I met a fascinating array of people, each with their own rich tapestry of stories and experiences. One lady in particular stood out for me - Josie from New Zealand. She listened attentively as I babbled on about my travel plans, offering me advice and giving me nothing but support and admiration. We quickly became close friends on this journey, and I hope to stay in touch with her as long as I can.

The train had its first stop in the capital of Manitoba, Winnipeg. Here we stopped for just over an hour, Josie and I had one mission and one mission only: to find maple sweets. These apparently were not just any sweets. They were fantastic. Josie had been told by a friend that it was imperative she bought these. Without much persuasion this sweet soon became the object of my desires also. Sadly once we arrived and scurried into the Forks Market eagerly in search of said sweets, we were slightly let down as there wasn’t any there that matched her friends description. To ensure we didn’t come away empty handed we both bought a bag of their best looking maple sweets we could find.

We wandered around the market and outside, discovering a beach which slightly confused us. Although, a beach is quite a deceiving description, it was more a lake with a man-made stretch of sand beside it. Still, we decided it was the place for an impromptu photoshoot. We then joined the others who were keen to find out whether we had found the famous sweets. We all collectively tried them and were pleasantly surprised, but not blown away, maybe the big talk had inflated our expectations slightly.

We headed back on board and retreated to our rooms for some much needed rest and recuperation. I went to bed filled with warmth and serotonin from my delightful new friends and anticipation for what day 3 was going to bring.

Day 3: Crossing the Prairies

As the train left Ontario and Manitoba behind, it ventured into the expansive prairies of Saskatchewan. The change in scenery is dramatic. The dense forests are replaced by wide-open spaces. The vastness of these plains, with their endless fields of golden wheat and barley, is both humbling and awe-inspiring.

At breakfast I sat with the loveliest English couple Avril and Peter who were so supportive and excited for my future plans which just filled me with warmth and gratitude for the kindness of others. I was lucky enough to sit with them for lunch too where we shared more stories and I learnt of their incredible travels around Central Asia.

Day 3 was a day filled with meeting amazing souls and sharing stories. I explored the train and went to the other dome car, where I met a gentlemen named Brod and his wife, whom again were just lovely, and I learnt that he was born in the same area my mother lives, it really is a small world.

At dinner I dined next to a Canadian gentlemen named Jerry, who was a man of not many words, however he told me lots about his family - in particular his grandson, whom I rather gather he was trying to set me up with. He asked my age - I responded, to which he gave a nod saying “that’s good” as if confirming I was a good match for his grandson. Without warning Jerry then passed his phone across the table to Steve and with some demand, told him to take a picture, not of us but just me. I think this was to then send over to his grandson, which just made me giggle. He was a lovely gent and I can only hope that one day someone looks out for me as much as Jerry did for his family.

The third day was probably the best on board. Post dinner we participated in a wine tasting, where I’m not sure that you could call it tasting but more just wine drinking.. they were almost all full glasses! I found myself next to Josie and the other people who were on her tour. It was just the best time, I’ve not laughed that hard in a long time. We exchanged stories of youth, travels and dildos being mistaken for baguettes…don’t ask, it was hilarious! I headed back with Josie and Mary to Josie’s ‘boudoir’ as she liked to call it, for some more wine and wholesome conversation. I will hold these two close to my heart, and savour the memories we have together, thank you both.

Day 4: The Majestic Rockies

Entering Alberta, the train approached the majestic Canadian Rockies. The towering peaks, snow-capped and grand, are a sight to behold. The whole train’s population had risen early, eager to watch as we entered the Rockies, scrambling for a seat in the dome car and an opportunity to snap that perfect picture of the mountains. This part of the journey was perhaps the most breathtaking, with the train winding through mountain passes and along crystal-clear lakes. I sat in awe and a slight state of disbelief of the life I was living.

The Rockies inspired endless conversations with fellow travelers. Each story, each piece of advice, each shared memory, was like a piece of a larger mosaic that painted a picture of my experience on The Canadian. The camaraderie on board grew stronger as we collectively marvelled at the natural beauty surrounding us.

It was with great sorrow that I had to say goodbye to Josie and the group I’d grown so fond of as they were getting off at Jasper.  I knew that whilst these were people I had only just met, I wouldn’t never forget them and will try my utmost to stay connected to them.

I had a stroll around the picturesque town of Jasper, bought myself some souvenirs, and a coffee as I chatted with some of the lovely girls who worked on board.

The train seemed slightly different now, so many of the familiar faces I had grown to love had been replaced by new ones. Interestingly a slightly younger crowd boarded at Jasper. Many amazing people, yet part of me couldn’t help but miss the others. I spent a lot of this day lost in thought, journalling and having moments when I felt rather lost. I think the vastness of the Rockies made me feel rather small and insignificant, but I quickly brought myself back to my upbeat and bubbly self.

Day 5: Arrival in Vancouver

The final day saw the train descending from the Rockies into the

lush, temperate landscapes of British Columbia. The journey culminated in Vancouver, a city that seamlessly blends urban sophistication with natural beauty. A fantastic setting between Pacific Coast and the dark green forests of the Coast Mountains: Vancouver is home to half the population of British Columbia.

As we disembarked, there was a sense of bittersweet farewell. The friendships forged over the five days, the shared experiences, and the collective awe of Canada’s landscapes made it more than just a journey—it was a profound life experience.

Reflections

Traveling on The Canadian is not just about the destinations but the journey itself. It’s about the slow, deliberate pace that allows for reflection and connection, the stunning vistas that unfold like a panoramic painting, and most importantly, it’s about the people - those fellow travellers whose stories and wisdom enrich your own life narrative.

In a world that often values speed and efficiency, a five-day railway journey across Canada is a reminder of the beauty of slow travel, it’s a testament to the richness of human connection and the awe-inspiring power of nature. Whether you’re a seasoned traveller or someone looking for a unique adventure, this journey on The Canadian is an experience that will stay with you long after the train has reached its final stop.

P.S. if you would like to watch some detailed clips on my journey you can find it on @zodysseyy on TikTok

https://www.tiktok.com/@zodyssey?_t=8nQUGzXKiq9&_r=1